# HDMI Gremlin Evicted It appears that my [[I Have a Problem with HDMI Capture|"blood moon" red tint issue]] has disappeared. AVerMedia support suggested rolling back the capture card's firmware to version 1.0.7.7 or 1.0.7.10 to see if the issue went away. After rolling back to both versions *and* updating back to the current version of 1.0.8.1, the gremlin haunting my capture has been evicted. Before diving into the current (and hopefully final state of affairs/performance), I do owe Elgato specifically an apology. I originally [[I Have a Problem with Elgato and Switch 2|pegged]] this red issue on the Switch 2 and my Elgato 4K X, given [[Elgato has a Switch 2 Problem|the subreddit was filled with issues]] around the consoles launch. > I'm not sure where the fault lies here. I suspect it is a mix between Nintendo and Elgato, probably more on the side of the Big N. I'll let you all know if I switch to AVerMedia because of all this. I have switched to AVerMedia because of this. Since the problem leapt over to my new AVerMedia card, Elgato was not the a culprit at all. While my problem with the [[I Have a Problem with Elgato|4K X's strange pass-thru performance]] compared to the HD60 X still stands, along with the promised performance on M1 Apple Silicon Mac computers, they were not at fault here. I am sorry for incorrectly piling on blame. Elgato's support team has been working with me to help resolve a separate, but (I think) related issue with the Switch 2 and the HD60 X even though I sold the 4K X to pay for their competitor's product. I've been an Elgato customer for [[250623_130603_Elgato Card 1.png|over 12 years]]. I pushed their Game Capture HD and my MacBook Air harder than they probably ever should have been. Here is what my card was producing before the rollback. ![[250623_1.0.8.1_Red.png]] And the subsequent rollbacks. #### 1.0.7.7 ![[250623_1.0.7.7_PS5.png]] ![[250623_1.0.7.7_Forza.png]] ![[250623_1.0.7.7_MKW.png]] #### 1.0.7.10 ![[250623_1.0.7.10_Cyber 1440p120.png]] ![[250623_1.0.7.10_Forza.png]] ![[250623_1.0.7.10_MKW.png]] #### 1.0.8.1 (Fresh Install) ![[250623_1.0.8.1_Reupdate_Fort.png]] ![[250623_1.0.8.1_Reupdate_Forza.png]] ![[250623_1.0.8.1_Reupdate_Welcome Tour.png]] The AVerMedia GC5532G2 Live Gamer Ultra 2.1 capture card was passing-through full HDMI 2.1 spec footage to my LG C1 with these tests. *Forza Horizon 4* was outputting its glorious 4K120 HDR gameplay. The Switch 2 booted up immediately in HDR (*Mario Kart World* was open) and looked as one would expect. Opening the Frame Rate test in *Welcome Tour* switched the console into [[250623_Welcome Tour_1440p.jpg|1440p120]], despite 1440p being grayed out in the display menu on the console. Everything is performing as it should...it seems. I haven't given the whole chain a proper play session to test it. I didn't bump the Switch 2 down to SDR as it does depending on the software. I didn't try my RetroTINK-4K Pro. There is still some ways to go to be positive the issue has been resolved, but at least I seemingly have a way to restore expected performance. While I am *relieved* that the issue appears to be gone, I still have lingering doubt. We still do not know what caused the issue to begin with. I can't be sure it won't pop up again. Some factors have changed since it all started: The Switch 2 received a nondescript firmware update; I integrated the dbrand Killswitch 2 case and dock adapter; I found a [[Gear#Video Games|more optimal cable flow]] in my capture setup.[^1] My theory is that there was a major whiff of an EDID handshake that jacked up the USB-C video signal in the capture cards caused by the Nintendo Switch 2. This issue only appeared once it entered the setup, and for a time, disappeared when the dock was disconnected from The Apparatus™. I can't know though and that is going to have to be enough for me. I will be running a more extensive test later, perhaps tonight if my Monday night ultimate frisbee plans are cancelled. For now, I am grateful that the problem is gone, even if just for a moment. [^1]: All consoles into the switcher first then the splitter. This allows for everything to independently be sent to the TV. Not sure why I didn't think of that sooner.